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Dermatology
School of Medicine  :  Internal Medicine  :  Dermatology  :  Patient Education

A Dermatologist's Guide to Cosmetics


Sensitive Skin Causes

  • Acne
  • Allergies
  • Contact dermatitis (allergic or irritant)
  • Rosacea
  • Hives
  • Eczema
  • Seborrheic dermatitis

Skincare Products for Sensitive Skin

  • Bath soap: Oil of Olay Sensitive Skin Bar
  • Facial cleanser: Neutrogena Non-Drying Cleansing Lotion
  • Shampoo: DHS Clear Dermatological Hair & Scalp Shampoo
  • Conditioner: DHS Conditioning Rinse
  • Facial/body moisturizer: Cetaphil Cream
  • Free & Clear Cleanser, Shampoo, Conditioner
  • Sunscreen with Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide

Makeup: Some Basic Rules

  • Don’t wear it if you don’t need it
  • Use as little as possible
  • Look for “non-comedogenic”, “non-acnegenic”, “hypoallergenic” products—although these terms are not necessarily true

Makeup Rules for Sensitive Skin

  • Choose powder-based makeup (loose, not pressed)
    • Fewer ingredients and preservatives
  • Avoid waterproof formulas
    • Removing them strips skin of its protective barrier
  • Use black eyeliner & mascara
    • Iron oxide without additional dyes is less allergenic
  • Use pencil for eyeliner/brows
    • Water-washable, wax-based with fewer preservatives & no latex
  • Earth-toned eyeshadows for sensitive, itchy, red eyes
  • Use cosmetics with 10 ingredients or less
  • Use silicone-based foundations for acne-prone skin
    • Dimethicone, cyclomethicone

More Makeup Rules

  • Throw away old cosmetics — preservatives break down and can lead to bacterial contamination or irritation
    • Foundation — 1 year
    • Powder/blush/shadows — 2 years
    • Lipstick — 1 year
    • Mascara — 3-4 months
    • Wash makeup brushes regularly
  • If you have more sensitive skin or a dermatologic condition — replace all products every 3-4 months

Potential Acnegenic Ingredients

Emollients: stearic acid derivatives

  • Isocetyl stearate
  • Isopropyl isostearate
  • Isopropyl palmitate
  • Isopropyl myristate
  • Butyl stearate

Lanolin derivatives

  • Acetylated lanolin

Detergents

  • Sodium laurel sulfate
  • Laureth 4

Occlusive moisturizers

  • Petrolatum
  • Sesame oil
  • Cocoa butter

Fragrance

  • all cosmetics & skincare products have some fragrance even if just to mask chemical odors

D & C red dyes

  • These are coal tar derivatives that worsen acne